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Twin Isolated Rope Systems

Canyon Rope Systems Twin Isolated Rope Systems Episode 3 of 10 This is a free course featuring Brent Roth about different ways to set up rappels through a canyon. This considers ease of rigging, abrasion, ease of rescue and how efficient it is to move people through the canyon. Our courses are A-Z content in blog format, glued together with an overarching blog we call a textbook. A blog format is easy to read, easy to update, and easy to translate. Be sure to begin at the TEXTBOOK and at the end of each episode we'll point you to the next. Twin rope systems is when both strands are usable but this falls into 2 main categories - ISOLATED and COMPOUND. This 3rd episode discusses the ISOLATED options which also, stay with me here, falls into the static and releasable options like the previous episode did. Let's "dive" into it. Twin Rope Isolated Systems Two strands; each capable of rappelling from the anchor. - Isolated - This is when one end of the rope is passed through the anchor, set to the pitch length, and then each strand is fixed together by hardware or knot. Static - Once either rappel strand is weighted it cannot be adjusted. When is this used? - Contingency rigging or when there is a need for increased efficiency. When should you not use this? - In considerable flow, hydraulic or difficult swimming disconnect, when an exact rope length is needed. Examples - Stone knot with a fiddlestick, Alpine Butterfly knot with both strands, F8 overhead lock with both strands. Static Twin Rope Systems video by Rich Carlson and article from Adolfo Isassi Retrieval - Remove the method of Isolation and convert the system to a Single Block or double-strand rappel. Use a retrievable anchor technique (ghosting). Releasable - One rappel strand can be lowered IF the other strand is unweighted. This is conditional that the other strand is not in use. When is this used? When rappel efficiency is desired inflows. When should you not use this? When a hydraulic or difficult swimming disconnect is present due to the extra rope in the water below. Examples - Joker, Joker Simple, Mickey, Jester. See the article from Adolfo Isassi for more examples. Retrieval - Remove the method of Isolation, and convert the system to a Single Block or double-strand rappel. David Mason posted in Canyon Rigging Facebook Group about a safety alert: do not use contingency 8. It's hard to identify and could release prematurely. I'll hold back the jokes. See the conversation where people oppose him but didn't identify what they were looking at correctly proving him right. HOWEVER, it can be a great tool if you know what you are doing. See the crazy 65 comments on this POST after JOINING the Canyon Rigging GROUP. 10% Supports HowNOT2 They sell canyon gear and ship internationally Twin Rope Isolated Systems Rating Static System Ease of Rigging - Better This system is as easy as learning to tie a butterfly knot with both strands or can use a few pieces of gear to rig. ✅Little or no hardware ✅Easy to identify ✅Easy to learn ✅Fast to rig ❌It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve Rigged for Rescue - Better Since two strands are rigged, there is an immediate option for a Direct Rescue. Due to having only one option of rescue available and the high-risk nature of a Direct Rescue, this is not the best system for rescue. ✅Easy to self-rescue ✅Easy to ascend ✅Option to rappel (Direct Rescue) ✅No additional rigging is required for rescue ❌Option to lower (Indirect Rescue) Efficient - Good Yes for moving people. Not so much on retrieving (depends on the isolation used) ✅Two people at a time ❌It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve Abrasion Protection- Good If one person is using both strands for rappel, there is less tension on each strand, and if one strand is cut the other can hold (probably not for long). ✅Two strands for rappel ✅Redundancy ❌One moving strand ❌Two moving strands HowNOT2 SWAG Twin Rope Isolated Systems Rating Releasable System Ease of Rigging - It depends… Some of these systems are easy to rig, but hard to inspect to an untrained eye (ie Joker Simple). Some may seem complicated, but overall easy to inspect (ie Joker). ✅Fast to rig ✅Little or no hardware ❌Easy to identify ❌Easy to learn ❌It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve Rigged for Rescue - Yes, but… Since two strands are rigged, there is an immediate option for a Direct Rescue. Each strand is releasable if the other strand is unweighted. This makes this system conditional, therefore a high level of situational awareness is required. ✅Easy to self-rescue ✅Easy to ascend ✅No additional rigging is required for rescue ✅Option to lower (Indirect Rescue) ✅Option to rappel (Direct Rescue) Efficient - Good Yes for moving people. Not so much on retrieving (depends on the isolation used) ✅Two people at a time ❌It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve Abrasion Protection - Good If one person is using both strands for rappel, there is less tension on each strand. If a single strand is used, it can be lowered if the other strand is unweighted. ✅One moving strand ✅Two strands for rappel ❌Two moving strands ❌Redundancy Applying Different Systems HowNOT2 Contribute If you have something to share, we'd love to add it. Please be kind by delivering something ready to add, whether that is a video or an image or a written piece, and tell us where you think it best fits. It doesn't have to agree with what we included, but it does have to be respectful and professional. There are a lot of great ideas out there and this is a place they can be shared. ryan@slackline.com What's Next? This course is free but not free to make. If it really helped you, please consider SUPPORTING US.

Twin Rope Compound Systems

Canyon Rope Systems Twin Rope Compound Systems Episode 4 of 10 This is a free course featuring Brent Roth about different ways to set up rappels through a canyon. This considers ease of rigging, abrasion, ease of rescue and how efficient it is to move people through the canyon. Our courses are A-Z content in blog format, glued together with an overarching blog we call a textbook. A blog format is easy to read, easy to update, and easy to translate. Be sure to begin at the TEXTBOOK and at the end of each episode we'll point you to the next. Twin rope systems is when both strands are usable but this falls into 2 main categories - ISOLATED and COMPOUND. This 4th episode discusses the COMPOUND options which also, stay with me here, falls into the static and releasable options like the previous episode did. Let's "dive" into it. Twin Rope Compound Systems Two strands; each capable of rappelling from the anchor. - Compound - This is when each strand can be operated independently of the other regardless of the load. It can be built using both ends of the same rope or two independent ropes. Static - Once the rope is weighted it cannot be adjusted. When is this used? - Emergency rope access, increased efficiency in group progression When should you not use this? - In considerable flow, Hydraulic or difficult swimming disconnect, when an exact rope length is desired Examples - Any combination of two static systems, Stone knot or Butterfly knot with each end of a rope or two ropes. Retrieval - Convert to a Single Blocked or Double rope system Releasable - Each strand can be lowered when either rope strand is weighted. This can be achieved with devices on the load strand or using a blocking method at the anchor. One strand should be passed through the anchor ring/link to save time in retrieving. When is this used? When rappel efficiency is desired inflows. When should you not use this? It takes time to rig and requires access to two ends of rope unless you have a proficient way of rigging this system (ie double-stacked rope bag). Examples - Any combination of two releasable systems. Retrieval - Since there are two strands running down the pitch, convert the one strand passing through the anchor ring/link to a blocked system. Load your rappel device to the rappel strand of the blocked system and lock it off. Connect the other strand with the remaining rope to the pull side of the blocked strand. ☠️ CAUTION ☠️ You MUST have a clear pull on the rope retrieval for the rope bag! Load your rappel device FIRST!! The weight of the remaining rope may cause the rope to “self retrieve” down the pitch. 10% Supports HowNOT2 They sell canyon gear and ship internationally Twin Rope Compound Systems Rating Static System Ease of Rigging - Better This system is as easy as two independent single static systems. If one of the Single Static systems is rigged as a block, there is no need to change the rigging on that strand for the last person to rappel. Because two systems are being rigged, it can take more time to build and de-rig. Once I have people moving on the first strand I will rig a second to move people through faster. ✅Little or no hardware ✅Easy to identify ✅Easy to learn ✅It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve ❌Fast to rig Rigged for Rescue - Good Since two strands are rigged, there is an immediate option for a Direct Rescue. Due to having only one option of rescue available and the high-risk nature of a Direct Rescue, this is not the best system for rescue. ✅Easy to self-rescue ✅Easy to ascend ✅No additional rigging is required for rescue ✅Option to rappel (Direct Rescue) ❌Option to lower (Indirect Rescue) Efficient - Best Two ropes to move people down are faster than one. If one of the Single Static systems is rigged as a block, there is no need to change the rigging on that strand for the last person to rappel, therefore saving time. ✅Two people at a time ✅It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve Abrasion Protection - Good If one person is using both strands for rappel, there is less tension on each strand, and if one strand is cut the other can hold (probably not for long). ✅Two strands for rappel ✅Redundancy ❌One moving strand ❌Two moving strands HowNOT2 SWAG Twin Rope Compound Systems Rating Releasable System Ease of Rigging - Better This system is as easy as learning to rig two Single Releasable systems on each strand. If one of the Single Static systems is rigged as a block, there is no need to change the rigging on that strand for the last person to rappel. ✅Little or no hardware ✅Easy to identify ✅Easy to learn ✅It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve ❌Fast to rig Rigged for Rescue - Best! Since two strands are rigged and releasable, there is an immediate option for an Indirect and Direct Rescue. ✅Easy to self-rescue ✅Easy to ascend ✅No additional rigging is required for rescue ✅Option to lower (Indirect Rescue) ✅Option to rappel (Direct Rescue) Efficient - It depends… Two ropes to move people down are faster than one. If one of the Single Releasable systems is rigged as a block, there is no need to change the rigging on that strand for the last person to rappel, therefore saving time. ✅Two people at a time ✅It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve Abrasion Protection - Best This system can give you the highest level of abrasion protection if a single person is rappelling on double strands and the strands are being lowered from the anchor. ✅One moving strand ✅Two strands for rappel ✅Two moving strands ✅Redundancy Applying Different Systems HowNOT2 Contribute If you have something to share, we'd love to add it. Please be kind by delivering something ready to add, whether that is a video or an image or a written piece, and tell us where you think it best fits. It doesn't have to agree with what we included, but it does have to be respectful and professional. There are a lot of great ideas out there and this is a place they can be shared. ryan@slackline.com What's Next? This course is free but not free to make. If it really helped you, please consider SUPPORTING US.

Double and Doubled Rope systems

Canyon Rope Systems Double (DRT) and Doubled (DdRT) Rope Systems Climbing vs Canyon Rappelling Episode 5 of 10 This is a free course featuring Brent Roth about different ways to set up rappels through a canyon. This considers ease of rigging, abrasion, ease of rescue and how efficient it is to move people through the canyon. Our courses are A-Z content in blog format, glued together with an overarching blog we call a textbook. A blog format is easy to read, easy to update, and easy to translate. Be sure to begin at the TEXTBOOK and at the end of each episode we'll point you to the next. These double and doubled rope systems is when a person is using both strands to progress. These two systems are identified not only by how they are rigged but by how they are used as well. They both of course have a static version and a releasable version. Double Rope Systems A system where two strands are equally weighted when progressing aka Rappel Double Static - When the rope is simply pulled through the anchor to a mid-way point. Both strands must run through the rappel device. The Efficiency is dependent on if a simultaneous rappel is being done or not. ☠️ CAUTION ☠️ Simul-rappels should only be done by two competent people that are familiar with the technique. When is this used? - One of the most common methods of rappelling. When should you not use this? - In considerable flow, Hydraulic or difficult swimming disconnect, when an exact rope length is desired Examples - Toss ‘n Go, Simul-rappel with two people Retrieval - Pull either strand when you are off the rope Releasable - When the rope is doubled over and can be adjusted. This would preferably be done using a stitch plate device. When is this used? - When extreme abrasion exists and can not be avoided by any other means. When should you not use this? - When you don't have a long enough rope. It Requires 4x the rope length needed for the pitch if rigging for rescue. Examples - These systems can be the same as Twin Compound Releasable systems if both strands are used by the same person to rappel (aka rappel double). Retrieval - LAPAR rappels using Double Static. Pull either strand. 10% Supports HowNOT2 They sell canyon gear and ship internationally Double Rope Systems Rating Static System Ease of Rigging - Best! Easiest of them all ✅Little or no hardware ✅Easy to identify ✅Easy to learn ✅Fast to rig ✅It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve Rigged for Rescue - None Since there is no rope in reserve, the anchor manager needs a second rope to render aid. For self-rescue, the person on rappel needs the knowledge, skill, and gear to ascend double strands. ❌Easy to self-rescue ❌Easy to ascend ❌No additional rigging is required for rescue ❌Option to lower (Indirect Rescue) ❌Option to rappel (Direct Rescue) Efficient - Yes, but use with caution. The Efficiency is dependent on if a simultaneous rappel is being done or not. Simul-rappels should only be done by two competent people that are familiar with the technique. ✅Two people at a time ✅It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve Abrasion Protection - Good A single person moving on two strands distributes their weight, therefore, putting less tension on each strand. Less tension makes it more difficult to abrade the rope. ❌One moving strand ✅Two strands for rappel ❌Two moving strands ❌Redundancy Double Rope Systems Rating Releasable System Ease of Rigging - It depends… If a person is using both strands of a Twin Compound Releasable system, it is essentially the same as Double Releasable. Some systems have slight variances so they can be difficult to learn and recognize. Since the rope is doubled over, retrieval is done by removing the hardware and LAPAR rappels Double Static. ❌Little or no hardware ❌Easy to identify ❌Easy to learn ❌Fast to rig ✅It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve Rigged for Rescue - Better Since these systems are releasable, there is an immediate option for an Indirect Rescue by lowering the person on rappel. In a swiftwater (class C) canyon, more training is highly recommended to identify hazards and how to appropriately use a releasable system. For self-rescue, the person on rappel needs the knowledge, skill, and gear to ascend double strands. ❌Easy to self-rescue ❌Easy to ascend ❌No additional rigging is required for rescue ❌Option to lower (Indirect Rescue) ❌Option to rappel (Direct Rescue) Efficient - Not really One person at a time on rappel is not efficient for moving a group. Since the rope is doubled over, retrieval is done by removing the hardware and LAPAR rappels Double Static. ❌Two people at a time ✅It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve Abrasion Protection - Best! A single person moving on two strands distributes their weight, therefore, putting less tension on each strand. Less tension makes it more difficult to abrade the rope. Since both ropes can move, this gives you the highest level of protection. ❌One moving strand ✅Redundancy ✅Two strands for rappel ✅Two moving strands DoubleD Rope Systems A system where two strands are equally weighted and moving in opposite directions while a person is progressing. This system can be considered a collapsing loop during ascending providing a 2:1 mechanical advantage or an expanding loop on rappel. Since two strands are weighted and moving during rappel this technique is ideal for managing abrasion. Static - When the rope is doubled over and can not be adjusted. When is this used? - Setting up a retrievable traverse line, LAPAR to manage abrasion on their descent, When should you not use this? - In considerable flow, Hydraulic or difficult swimming disconnect, when an exact rope length is desired Examples - Self-belay when building retrievable traverse lines Retrieval - Untie all knots and pull the strand that is the shortest length. Releasable - When the rope is doubled over and can be adjusted. This would preferably be done using a second Doubled Rope System as a “dropped loop” from the anchor. When is this used? - This system is not very practical due to the amount of pre-rigging and having to lower a ring/carabiner. When should you not use this? Anytime another system will work for the situation. Examples - Self-belay rigged on a drop loop system. Retrieval - Convert system to Doubled Static for the LAPAR. Untie all knots and pull the strand that is the shortest length. HowNOT2 SWAG DoubleD Rope Systems Rating Static System Ease of Rigging - Better This system is rigged with basic knot craft and rappelling knowledge. ✅Little or no hardware ✅Easy to identify ✅Easy to learn ✅Fast to rig ✅It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve Rigged for Rescue - Nope Since both ends of the rope are used by the person on the rope, rescue requires a second rope. For self-rescue, the person on rappel needs the knowledge, skill, and gear to ascend double strands. ❌Easy to self-rescue ❌Easy to ascend ❌No additional rigging is required for rescue ❌Option to lower (Indirect Rescue) ❌Option to rappel (Direct Rescue) Efficient - Good One person at a time on rappel is not efficient for moving a group. Since the rope is doubled over, retrieval is done by removing the hardware and pulling the rope. ❌Two people at a time ✅It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve Abrasion Protection - Best! Since one person is on two strands and both strands are moving, this system is great for protection. ❌Redundancy ❌One moving strand ✅Two strands for rappel ✅Two moving strands DoubleD Rope Systems Rating Releasable System Ease of Rigging - Nope There is a lot going on here ❌Little or no hardware ❌Easy to identify ❌Easy to learn ❌Fast to rig ❌It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve Rigged for Rescue - Good For self-rescue, the person on rappel needs the knowledge, skill, and gear to ascend double strands and able to pass a “knot”. ❌Easy to self-rescue ❌Easy to ascend ❌No additional rigging is required for rescue ✅Option to lower (Indirect Rescue) ❌Option to rappel (Direct Rescue) Efficient - Nope One person on rappel and a lot of time to rig ❌Two people at a time ❌It does not have to be re-rigged to retrieve Abrasion Protection - Best The only good thing about this system ❌Redundancy ❌One moving strand ✅Two strands for rappel ✅Two moving strands If you feel like you got this, let's break test your knowledge on HowNOT2 learn! 😂 📝 Take The Quiz!!! 📝 HowNOT2 Contribute If you have something to share, we'd love to add it. Please be kind by delivering something ready to add, whether that is a video or an image or a written piece, and tell us where you think it best fits. It doesn't have to agree with what we included, but it does have to be respectful and professional. There are a lot of great ideas out there and this is a place they can be shared. ryan@slackline.com What's Next? This course is free but not free to make. If it really helped you, please consider SUPPORTING US.

Hangman Rigging

Canyon Rope Systems Hangman Rigging Episode 6 of 10 Our courses are A-Z content in blog format, glued together with an overarching blog we call a textbook. A blog format is easy to read, easy to update, and easy to translate. Be sure to begin at the TEXTBOOK and at the end of each episode we'll point you to the next. I like to call this the “Hangman” method where some devices when hanging from the anchor, look like a hangman. Being symmetrical on both sides, you can rig a simple blocking system or a complex twin compound releasable system with just one device. We used the Palikoa Pivot from GlacierBlackGear here but it can be done with any symmetrical device. The key is do not to cross any strand over the center. Evolution of Canyon Techniques The Figure-8 has been an iconic canyon descent control device (DCD) for decades. Due to its long history and versatility, a lot of techniques have been developed around the use of a Figure-8 device. But the Figure-8 did not meet all of the required needs of modern canyoning. This led to the development of “modified 8 devices” or Variable Friction Descenders (VFD). This article is not about the development of the devices themselves, but the techniques in which they are used. I started looking at most of the rope techniques, basic and advanced, rigged with figure-8s and started rigging them with the new devices. What I have found so far is with a symmetrical VFD all rope configurations can be done with less equipment on the anchor. The caveat is the user must be proficient with this type of device and have a firm understanding of locking off the device by using a cleat. This would be considered an open system, but it is a commonly acceptable tie-off for these devices. The devices that I have experimented with are the Resonator, Hoodo, CRITR 2 and the PaliKoa Pivot. I refer to using these devices for these techniques as a Hangman due to the fact they look like a person hanging from the anchor and Hang-Person just sounds weird. They are shown here in a couple of different configurations. Light Weight using a 30cm Dyneema sling, High Abrasion using a quick-link and with a quickdraw. Rope Configurations Single Rope Static This is no difference between these devices since the device is rarely needed for this technique. Single Rope Releasable (AKA 8 Block) A Traditional Way Hangman Double Rope Static (AKA Toss-and-Go) This is no difference between these devices since the device is not needed for this technique. Twin Rope Isolated Releasable A Traditional Way Hangman Tom Seeley and his partner from On Rope did a pull-test of this configuration with 8.5mm CST rope and it starts pulling through just under 400 pounds. Twin Rope Compound Releasable A Traditional Way Hangman Twin Rope Compound Releasable w/ Separate Rope (Rescue Rope) A Traditional Way Hangman All of the Hangman techniques are done with a common process. The Common Process: Pass rope through the anchor Create friction on the Load Strand; pull a bight through the VFD head and pass over an arm Create friction on the Backside; wrap the Brake Strand around and an arm/leg Cleat for lock-off For double and twin rope configurations, this needs to be done on the same side, left or right, of the VFD to maintain releasability. Terminology defined for clarification: Load Strand - Strand of rope the person is rappelling on Brake Strand - Strand of rope used to control the descent Frontside - The side of the rappel ring or quick-link the Load Strand is on Backside - The side of the rappel ring or quick-link the Break Strand is on Cleat - The action of passing an underhand bight over a solid point Applying Different Systems 10% Supports HowNOT2 They sell canyon gear and ship internationally HowNOT2 SWAG HowNOT2 Contribute If you have something to share, we'd love to add it. Please be kind by delivering something ready to add, whether that is a video or an image or a written piece, and tell us where you think it best fits. It doesn't have to agree with what we included, but it does have to be respectful and professional. There are a lot of great ideas out there and this is a place they can be shared. ryan@slackline.com What's Next? This course is free but not free to make. If it really helped you, please consider SUPPORTING US.

Friction Tests on Twin Isolated Systems

Canyon Rope Systems A HowNOT2 Course Episode 7 of 10 This is a free course featuring Brent Roth about different ways to set up rappels through a canyon. This considers ease of rigging, abrasion, ease of rescue and how efficient it is to move people through the canyon. Our courses are A-Z content in blog format, glued together with an overarching blog we call a textbook. A blog format is easy to read, easy to update, and easy to translate. Be sure to begin at the TEXTBOOK and at the end of each episode we'll point you to the next. Twin Isolated Systems Friction Testing Brent set up a mechanical disadvantage so he could put more weight than himself on different lowering devices in different modes. How much friction do the different devices generate using the same 8mm rope on every device. The tail of the rope was just dangling down into the rope bag and we wrapped all these devices several different ways: Petzl Eights, Camp Ovo, Rock Exotica Totem, Palikoa Pivots, Critter, and Hoodoo. In the simplest modes, it took 20-30 lbs to get the rope to move. In the higher friction modes, it took up to 500lbs to get it to move! The forces themselves are irrelevant but how they compare to each other is what's interesting. This information isn’t really worth charting or graphing as it requires the context of how we rigged it and this episode is edited quite tightly so it’s easy to skip through it in 5 minutes to get a general idea or watch the whole thing to admire Brent's ingenuity. This test came about when I was working on the Hangman rigging technique. I was constructing different ways to achieve a Twin Isolated system, but did not know what was an acceptable amount of friction in order to use a system like this. I could 'feel' that some had more than others, but that is not enough to change the minds of old canyoneers. 😂 So I devised this test to put some numbers to what I was doing. It still takes field use and practice to determine if a system is acceptable for everyone to use, but I feel comfortable using a Hangman system after see these results. You must make you own choice. No matter what Twin Isolated system you use, you should never solely trust the friction of the device to hold someone on rappel! 10% Supports HowNOT2 They sell canyon gear and ship internationally What's Next? This course is free but not free to make. If it really helped you, please consider SUPPORTING US.

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